This morning we surfed a spot in Noosa called Tea Tree. It's a perfect wave that can peel for up to 200 meters. Longboard heaven. For that very reason it's super crowded. It's like the Malibu of California.
I waited and waited on the inside, just to see if I could pick off anyone's leftovers. Just as I was getting close to taking one of the scraps in, two older local surfers paddled by and told me to follow them to the outside. On our way through the crowd they let everyone know that the next wave would be mine. And just like that, within minutes I was on one of the longest waves I've ever caught. I'm still glowing. I've never witnesses such kindness to an out of town surfer.
No comments:
Post a Comment